the schlep is on

Buenos Aires de mi corazón. It's been a few weeks on the road with surprisingly little looking back. I am missing my neighbor Margarita's empanadas. I am missing a place that feels like home and a bed that feels like mine. I miss my girls that made me feel I had a family wherever I landed. I am happy to be on the road again and feeling that every day is a new adventure. I am wondering when I will see the streets of Buenos Aires again and whether I'll see them again. I am reeling that my last sights of the city were from the back of a cab, lights on Corrientes ablaze, muddied with tears.

We are blogging over at the thebigschlep about some of the adventures of our overland journey from Buenos Aires to Santa Barbara so please go and read it. In the meantime this page will be mildly out of commission save for future reflections. Thanks one and all for visiting.

and a good time was had by all

With lots of pomp and circumstance, Paul made his comedy debut last night to a wonderful crowd smattered with friends at El Bululú. It was a really lovely ambiance thanks to all the support of friends and friends of friends. Paul is now unofficially the 'funniest gringo in Buenos Aires'.

I want to say thanks so much to El Jefe, Greg Roden, for videotaping the event and his partner in all things photographic, Tommy, for taking some beautiful pictures. Luis for always schlepping us around in your cab and taking us to cool BA haunts. It was lovely, as always to see friends there: Luis, Susana, Greg, Tommy, Natalie, M.E., Ana Paula, Marisa, Gabo, Kirsten, Jason, Erica, Sergio, Pat, Isabel, Cyntia, Ana, Paulo (were you really there?!). Thanks for sharing a really fun night with us. Videos and photos to follow as soon as we overcome our technical difficulties.

tarot

From Miss Tango in her Eyes - Tango Goddess and soon-to-be-mamita-nueva! The little quiz is fun and the results are interesting. If you test your tarot, you should post your results in my comments.

You are The Sun

Happiness, Content, Joy.

The meanings for the Sun are fairly simple and consistent.

Young, healthy, new, fresh. The brain is working, things that were muddled come clear, everything falls into place, and everything seems to go your way.

The Sun is ruled by the Sun, of course. This is the light that comes after the long dark night, Apollo to the Moon's Diana. A positive card, it promises you your day in the sun. Glory, gain, triumph, pleasure, truth, success. As the moon symbolized inspiration from the unconscious, from dreams, this card symbolizes discoveries made fully consciousness and wide awake. You have an understanding and enjoyment of science and math, beautifully constructed music, carefully reasoned philosophy. It is a card of intellect, clarity of mind, and feelings of youthful energy.

What Tarot Card are You?
Take the Test to Find Out.

pompeya mía

A quiet Sunday morning, cups of tea and yogurt. A phone call, a helping hand needed, a welcome distraction. A taxi to a new corner of town, a bird market, a man with papered fingers handling pigeons, tropical fish, a sad, poor neighborhood and people. A garbage heap, the stench of the Riachuelo, villa as far as the eye can see. A few photos mark the last corners of town left to map before the expedition moves forward.

la tontita

So after a brief hiatus, here is all the news fit to print here from Buenos Aires.

- It's cold here! Damn cold. It was 2 degrees here in the Capital on Monday and Tuesday last week and Argentines are dropping like flies. Every day the papers report people all over the country dying of cold for various reasons: lack of housing, carbon monoxide poisoning, heart failure, etc. The French woman who keeps coming to my Spanish class at the UBA contagious with fever and flu has made me sick for the second time this season so I am making a point of eating lots of soup and keeping our heaters rocking until this too passes.

- Today is election day here in Buenos Aires and around 2.5 million porteños will vote today to elect a new mayor. All pre-election polls are showing incumbent Telerman with his unfortunate bald head being ousted in favor of Macri, but only the next few days will tell as the quilombo which is the Argentine electoral process unfolds. In the meantime the election has provided political posters like the one pictured here with counter-political messages like topu, garca, and pontete pelo puto. Poor, bald Telerman seems to be taking the biggest swings.

- Last night the lovely Ana Paula, Paul's "work wife" threw a lovely party in honor of Paul leaving his job (take that however you wish). We spent a lovely evening in a beautiful area of Belgrano complete with designer stores, modern apartments, clean streets, wide green spaces, and general loveliness. Despite having no business in such a classy part of town, we had a great time nibbling cheese, empanadas, and cake washing it down with a selection of fine Argentine wines. Good times and giggles were shared by all and I think it's fair to say that part of Paul misses the 'Office Space' world. So far he's a total failure as a house-husband but hopefully even the monkey can learn eventually.

- I had a brand new 'Lost In Translation' moment that brought me to new heights of tonta last night. I was having a hard time keeping up, totally congested with a head full of snot and rapid fire Spanish conversation. Usually it's not a problem but combine fatigue, decongestants, and crankiness and you end up where I was - thoroughly lost. I finally tried to jump into the conversation with an easy topic: an Argentine friend inquired as to what, exactly, was a twinkie. I explained that they are sponge cake, cream filled, but totally disgusting because of the preservativos that they contain. Total silence. It was about 5 seconds before I realized I had committed a rookie mistake in a public setting. DOH! In Spanish preservatives are conservantes while preservativo is the Spanish word for condom. Lots of laughter (mostly from Paul) and one Scottish-level red face later, I tried to change the subject. Serious ego damage alert. Chalk it up to swollen glands.

- The longer I stay, the more homesick I get. I just heard that my dad had a nasty tumble down a flight of stairs. When I called home my sister, mum, and dad were hanging out together trying to make the best of it. I thought about Santa Barbara, how the summer must be closing in, about surfing, about going for walks with my sisters. The cold, dark, gray city makes me miss home. I think it might almost be time.

- A dear friend of mine is pregnant! Congratulations to Carla, her entire family, and her brand new bean! I need to start knitting again.

- That's all for now. I have sickness ADD and can't finish sentences, am way behind on my emails, and have procrastinated all weekend a simple work assignment. I can't wait until I can smell and taste again. Gagh! I am considering taking out a hit on the French woman in my class...

¡Que coman!

Maybe it's the chilly winter weather, maybe it's the fact that I am working out regularly again, maybe it's the fact that my panza has grown to a panzota over the last year, maybe it's the blurbs I am writing about food over at One Sorry Blog, who knows what it is exactly? But I have food on the brain. Good, fresh, wholesome, nourishing, home cooked food on the brain. I sit here now with Mexican rice and Chipotle chicken (thanks, Bubba Ray) and love life, love winter, love delicious plates of hot food. So without further ado, here are some of my favorite people doing some of my favorite things. I wish you all good soups and stews this winter or good salads and smoothies if the sun is shining where you are. I have to remind myself to be thankful for one of life's most essential luxuries.

dando vueltas

After two cups of tea and an embarrassing attempt at Scrabble on my part, my boss called me yesterday morning. A serious no-no for a Saturday. The pobrecito recently rolled back into town (literally - wheeled off the plane) with a seriously messed up knee from an egregious kareoke incident in San Francisco. This crazy guy agreed to complete a whirlwind assignment for Rough Guides with a bum leg, 3 days to do it, and rainstorms on the forecast. Naturally, I obliged, using the excuse to catch up with the boss, get a load of his mojo with the ladies in Recoleta, spend a day as a professional photographer's assistant, and get serious advice on what to do with my new digital camera.

It was a seriously fun day schlepping from Las Violetas, one of my favorite hundred year old cafes in Almagro (with not a tourist in sight), to the El Ateneo Gran Splendid bookstore (which we agreed may be the most beautiful bookstore in the world), down to La Boca to check out kids playing soccor and check prices on galpón rentals. The nice thing about traveling around with a boss with a bum leg is that you travel in style, taxiing everywhere and cruising around at a pleasant pace. Even the heavy cloud cover didn't manage to stop Greg from getting some beautiful shots. I am pretty impressed at what a pro can come up with with just a camera, a few days, and a shoestring budget. Hopefully the rest of the world can check out the results in the new Rough Guide to Argentina. I love my new baby digital camera that fits in my pocket and rocks like a pro. This will keep me in photos until I wake up one morning with money for my digital SLR under my pillow. Happy Sunday, one and all.

todo mocoso

There's nothing like fresh air and a gorgeous baby to lift up your spirits. Paul and I jumped on the overnight bus to Córdoba on Friday evening after work. We took the Tuesday holiday as an excuse for Paul to get Monday off and spend the weekend with our friends Conrado and Analía in the suburbs of the city. Conrado and Analía, two tried and true cordobeses, lived in Buenos Aires and were Paul's English students until the end of Analia's pregnancy last year when they decided that they could not raise a baby in the city of bronca and packed up and went back to Córdoba where they own a home, the weather is fine, and there is not a snooty porteño in sight. Fair enough. They now seem to be thriving in the domestic lifestyle by enjoying time with the gorgeous and happy Marco, playing with the cutest puppy in the world, Lola, and ridding the house of invading tarantulas. Though everything else was practically perfect in every way, the quick jaunt to the country provided me with a close encounter of the spider kind that I never, ever want to repeat and provided Conrado with the rare opportunity to comment, "¡Qué lindo bicho, che!" a phrase you just don't hear every day.

What a gorgeous weekend. Conrado and Analía were smashing hosts, whipping us through the towns in the Sierras, cooking us riverside asado to die for, allowing us to enjoy their amazing company, and sharing the cutest baby in the world. When Conrado finally broke down and asked Paul if his weekend with the baby had changed his (forcefully negative) mind about having kids of his own one day, Paul stopped, paused, considered the incredible feats of Conrado and Analía (themselves just a few years older than Paul and I, and finally explained his new, softened opinion on children and plan to adopt babies from around the world, raise them as bilingual, and sell them on the child slave market for generous profit. It's nice to know that the sun in Córdoba and the radiant smile of Marco didn't entirely melt Paul's stone-cold heart...

We are celebrating a lovely labor day in Buenos Aires. We have already been swept with rain, ate some tasty grilled cheese sandwiches, caught up on all the goings-on in our email and One Sorry Blog, and planning for the rest of what promises to be a busy week. I think part of our restless souls is really ready to leave Buenos Aires behind. I already can't wait until my parents come and we can get out of town together. Lucky for me I have fun work, classes, lunch dates, students, correspondence, and a house with a dismantled revolving door to look forward to for the first time in months. In the meantime, those of you with a serious penchant for cute babies can click here for more photos of the mocoso hermoso.

fun with film

Jenny "la rata" Fickert and I seriously tried our best to have no photographic proof of our trip to Mendoza. I handily had my camera stolen two weeks ago (and am still feeling the burn) and Jenny neglected to pack her camera in the flurry to escape from the house in time to make the overnight bus trip. Our plans were foiled when we found a little store and decided to party like it was 1989 with two disposable crapbags. The results were some interestingly bad shots and some cute shots (see above) and everything in between.

My first trip to Mendoza, despite my lack of evidence, was pretty incredible. We soared over the city paragliding, visited some wineries by bicycle, ate some delicious delicacies in the city, I found two (count 'em TWO!) pairs of bargain shoes, ended up out of gas and half way to the Chilean border in our ludicrously cheap rental car while visiting every Argentine pueblito on a desperate search for Cachueta, and finally soaking it up in style at the hot springs when we finally made it. Jenny proved to be a kick-ass traveling buddy, did not let my plague get her down nor get her down when she caught it, and got her first US passport stamp.

I am trying to catch up on my blog, prepare my presentation for Spanish class tomorrow on why the US Health Care System is the worst in the world (how hard can it be?), test websites for Boulevards, bake cake for my 80 year old neighbors birthday, and pack to visit friends in Córdoba this weekend who have a new baby that I am told is un gordito hermoso. I am staying busy, trying to stay warm as the temperature has dropped about 20 degrees in the last two weeks, and trying to just enjoy everything as much as possible.

Sorry for the lag in blog. El jefe is allegedly blasting back onto the Buenos Aires scene on Tuesday morning with my brand new (not quite so fancy but equally functional) digital camera in tow. Hurrah! I am hoping that when I am able to capture the images again, the words will come with it. I will be back in the blogging spirit very soon.

best week ever

I have officially neglected my blog for far too long. I will now, try to pitifully explain why. So to rip off my sister the network TV slut, in no particular order, and in true Nick Hornby style, here are the highlights of my week in Buenos Aires:

- Jenny "la rata" Fickert, of Santa Barbara Independent fame, arrives at Ezeiza International sans luggage. Read more about the power and prowess of the baggage handlers at Ezeiza here.

- Jenny proceeds to exit the customs area without filling out a claim for her baggage causing an unhelpful conversation with an angry porteña and having to coerce our way back inside by any means necessary.

- I take Jenny on the obligatory schlep through the Recoleta Cemetery and the feria at the Plaza Francia where a kindly pickpocket relieves me of my digital camera and some great photos. Can't even lose focus for ten seconds in this town when you have to pee...

- We take in a touristy but fun tango show to celebrate Heather Christensen's birthday at boogie down at Fugees 99.

- After a long night at the boliche, the phone rings at 9am on Saturday morning. A friend of a friend (who we hadn't even had the pleasure of meeting yet) has the expected South American dysentery. I spend Saturday morning in the hospital and buying soup and crackers for a poor, unwell soul.

- Heather and Taylor depart on Saturday evening. This time, Taylor leaves with two passports having obtained a second to replace the first (which he lost in the taxi from Ezeiza) just two hours after the first was returned. Sheesh. The Heather and Taylor whirlwind trip goes out with a bang.

- We barbeque most of Sunday afternoon and spend it with Leta, the friend of a friend, who is recovering well from her dysentery and I feel pretty crappy by the end of the meal and have to skip the cake (balls!).

- I wake up Monday morning with the plague (which I am sure is a free gift courtesy of the sick and needy at the German Hospital on Saturday morning). I haven't slept at all Sunday night because I can't breathe and my throat is almost closed up.

- I spend Monday morning in the hospital (again), the rest of Monday afternoon schlepping my corpse around town playing reluctant tour guide while trying to procure my medication from various pharmacies.

- Having procured half of my medication, I throw my prescription in the garbage and put it out in the street for collection (chalk this one up to the no-sleep factor).

- I find out that someone I care about very much has a broken heart. And I worry.

- Today I faced a very hard 2 hour Spanish class being that I have the plague and all. I still haven't done my homework.

- I bought bus tickets for Mendoza leaving Thursday night on a coche super cama, nothing but the best for the plague-ridden.

- I figure I'll be alright if I can get through 8 more days of visiting friends.

- I am broke, broke, broke. So broke it's a joke (just thought I'd throw that one in for good measure!)

- Digital camera donations accepted (see the above highlight).

Back soon...

leaving las vegas

There is, as always, good news and bad news. The bad news for Las Vegas is that Justin Mabardi is heading out of town. After a serious stint whipping the Dragone show La Rêve into the greatest show on the strip, practically taking residence at my personal Mecca, Wynn Las Vegas, Justin is cashing in his chips and is going (going) back (back) to Cali (Cali). Serious bummer for you Las Vegas. At least Las Vegas is full of hookers, money, and big hair so the city will likely survive.

The good news? For all my faithful readers in California, Justin is continuing his relationship with the world of Dragone and going to work on the new show, Carmen, at the La Jolla playhouse. Click here to read the press release and learn more about the production. All theater lovers, Justin fans, surfers hitting San Diego, or those who should just do what I say (I think I have pretty much encapsulated everyone I know now) should all head down to San Diego and check out the show which will run June and July. Hurry, because Justin (and the show) are likely to be swept of to Broadway. Glimpses of this man are rare and precious in California. If Justin's past stage ventures are any indication, this show will be spectacular.